Alberto's Voice

Music in Caracas

November 27, 2011

Caracas, Venezuela

We had no presuppositions about Caracas except that it would be hot and green and have Chavez all over it.  It is amazingly green; anything and everything grows without help in its fertile soil. Chavez is the huge mistake the country made 14 years ago and will be paying for in the next 5-10 transition years after his demise. But, hot is not a word I would use for this blessed warm Spring-like atmosphere (okay, they say that December (SUMMER) is really hot...  but the rest of the year is blessed with continuous Spring. Caracas is so overpopulated, this east-west valley into which approximately 4 million people are stuffed, that it also possess eternal infernal traffic. Traffic of a kind only experienced during rush hour on the Long Island Expressway, except, ALL  THE TIME! It is not something I think I could get used to. Everyone has a "driver"....if they can afford it.

The Jewish community is split between Sephardim and Ashkenazim about 50-50. We visited the huge and oh so beautiful Sephardic synagogue that is now not where the Jews live any longer. Before Chavez, there were about 12,000 Jews in Caracas. Now, they have 8,000. Part of the reason is the attack on this Asociacion Israelita de Venezuela synagogue by the Chavez leftists (no one hurt, but the synagogue was defaced and the signs were very clear). Of course, the community built yet another building to add to its 28 congregations! Everyone is waiting for people to return to this beautiful country once the political situation returns to "normal"-- whatever that is in South America.

The biggest surprise and blessing of this country is its musical culture. Dr. Abreu, an economist, but really a visionary who was considered a crackpot in the 1950's when he first started spouting his theory about music education, completely changed the direction of the youth of this country. He was told it could not be done; take children from as young as 6 yrs. and put them through a System of education that would stress each of them learn an instrument and play in an orchestra.  To make a very long story short, there are now 168 youth orchestras in Venezuela, backed by the World Bank of the Americas and private industry. Because the government bought and runs almost everything public, he also built a state of the art music center with a 2,000 seat hall that is perfection (there is also a smaller hall and two more being planned abutting them) and 300 classrooms that teach music to children from all over South America. This system of orchestras and choirs for youth and children has had 300,000 children go through it and has taken young people off the streets and given them a purpose.

Finally, working with the amazing composer and maestro, Krszyztof Penderecki, is a blessing each time I am honored to do so. The program I was on (singing his 2009 composition, KADYSZ - in memory of the Lodz Getto) also included his 1967 composition, DIES IRAE (in memory of the victims of Auschwitz), the Bruch Kol Nidre and some of Maestro Penderecki's a cappella settings of Catholic Latin texts. Maestro Penderecki is a devout Catholic with a very large heart. I hope we will someday have the privilege to hear these works in Chicago.                     On to Buenos Aires..........

Part 4 - Genesis Peace Tour in Israel

FROM MY WINDOW AT THE Executive Sea Suites hotel, Tel Aviv.

 

It used to be that when I walked off the plane at Ben Gurion Airport I would immediately fall into the rhythm and language of the country. What with the High Holy Days approaching so rapidly and the myriad details and constant negotiations needed on a tour of a group of world-class musicians, and the usual "problems", it has taken me almost a week to attain the same attachment and excitement about being in Eretz Yisrael.

Last night, we performed in the back yard of the U.S. Ambassador's house. Mr. Shapiro has roots in Illinois, Wisconsin, and now Chicago where he and his family live when they are not stationed abroad.  After standing in line for a while, I was able to give him and his wife, Hillary, a "griss" from Gary and Fraeda Porton who are very close friends of his family. It was another fabulous musical experience, although he had to sneak away in the middle of the concert to make his plane to NY for the proceedings at the United Nations...we understood!

Did I tell you about the day that I said goodbye to the gentleman who was critically responsible for bringing Saffron Caravan to the Bedouin community of Chura?  He is a brilliant computer scientist (yes, a Bedouin) who teaches at Beersheva University and is on the forefront of using computers to translate Arabic and Hebrew ancient documents with the use of very coplex software, especially since some of them  are written atop each other....wild stuff.  His name is Jihad, which does not mean "holy war"!  Look it up!

I never thought I would hug a Jihad, and yet, there I we were, saying goodbye. What a world. Israel has won all the wars it has been forced to fight. The only war we have lost is the Arab's brilliant move to make the plight of the Palestinians an international issue. The only "refugees" that have been accorded this status in the last many years.

Let us finally deal with the main theme of our tour; FOOD. Oh, my gosh! The receptions, restaurants, parties and even street food we have been privileged to taste and experience shed a completely new light on Middle Eastern cuisine. Between that and the music that plays everywhere (not always great but often quite loud--- reminding me of the SUV's on U.S. streets with their overblown bass woofers) Israel remains a vibrant, on the go, well to do society that simply needs a few years of peace in which could be created a powerhouse of knowledge and commerce that would even excel the reality of this day.

Shanah Tovah umetuka... may we all share a peaceful and fragrant New Year.

I say shalom to Israel at 5AM this morning, but if granted health I am sure that Debbie and I will be back again and as often as possible.

Part 3- Saffron Caravan/Genesis Peace Tour of Israel

Jet lag has its advantages. If you cannot sleep you may as well read and write!
Some observations, not necessarily in temporal order:

What is one to think when checking into the Ambassador Hotel in East Jerusalem (remember, we are talking about an area two blocks away from the major street of the city) that displays "WHAT TO DO - WHAT TO SEE  IN PALESTINE." To me it was a shock. To my friends and family it was business as usual. They are used to it.  And, my friend, and political opposite, Tom, says, "What do you expect? It IS Palestine in East Jerusalem."  Frustration is a mild way of describing that experience.

One finds out that there are more levels of Arabs, Palestinians and "others" to deal with than ever considered. The hotel restaurant manager, Djamal, a dapper gentleman about 50, shares the cappuccino bar with me and we discuss "THE SITUATION" calmly. He feels that all everyone wants if Peace and a "good life." He is sick of war and conflict and feels that he is powerless to help because it is all about POWER AND MONEY. These are very close to my feelings, except one must add SECURITY, of which there is much in reality but very little in people's minds.  Everyone is worried about the U.N. vote coming up, about "Obama", about the possibility of a million people trying to cross the borders into Israel from all fronts (it seems to be an urban legend which is taking hold) on the day of the vote. I must stop here about the political/social/military possibilities because I am truly not expert enough to publish my thoughts. I will say, I have seen and spoken with a few Arabs who want peace and I have spoken with others who know them to be an itntractable enemy who will not stop until???????

On the lighter side, Genesis at the Crossroads brought my ensemble, Saffron Caravan, to Israel to bridge people in conflict through music. We are succeeding. Our experience with the Bedouin community of Chura and a couple of others, all near Beersheva, has shown that barriers between people break down quickly when they sing together. To go into someone's home and speak about family, history, needs and successes, shows all involved that neither is a monster, nor perfect. The Bedouins are disliked and untrusted by the Israelis and Israeli Arab population for a number of reasons, some quite serious. But, this not being an expose, let it suffice to say that there are numerous Bedouins who are making moves to improve the lot of the rest by creating schools (like the math/science academy we sang for) and organizing their communities (used to large tribal/family groups mistrustful of each other).

This blog has taken a tone I did not expect. These things (and I have only skimmed the surface of my experience and thoughts) are obviously weighing on my mind. So, let me say shalom for now and I will write about the main events of this tour...MUSIC, FRIENDSHIP AND FOOD in my next blog.

Hazzan Alberto Mizrahi from the International YMCA hotel (may I suggest you use the King David across the street).

Part 2- Saffron Caravan/Genesis Peace Tour of Israel

Left my PDA on the seat of our flight to Israel; not looking real good about getting it back. Ah, well, you do not need to share my pain.

Spent the day at a Bedouin School of Science and Math just north of Beersheva. The children are the cream of the crop of the surrounding villages and this experimental school is meant to allow more of them the opportunities that have been afforded only to the very few in the past. Saffron Caravan split up into twos and gave master classes, amounting mostly to teaching a song or two and performing one for the class before closing, which were received with a passion that surprised the school administration. Music performed at this level, especially by men, is a strange thing to the Bedouin. We could have stayed in the classes for another hour or more...they were so ripe for new experience and the "exotic" nature of having American men perform for them!  This was the opinion of the principal of the school. 

We are returning today for more master classes and to rehearse with three indigenous musicians on very ancient instruments. Their music sounds rudimentary on the radio but   it is rhythmically intricate in its performance. Our concert this evening was  oversubscribed by the surrounding villages who VERY rarely get the opportunity to hear international concerts given in their villages. Much to say about the status of the Bedouin in Israel today. But, we'll leave that for a more retrospective time.

Shalom from Beersheva....

Part 1- SAFFRON CARAVAN PEACE TOUR OF ISRAEL

IN THE AIR

As we returned from two Anshe Emet "smachot," a Bat Mitzvah in Carmel Valley (i.e. heaven) and Ryan Schonfeld's wedding to Sarah in D.C. (on the same weekend) there was very little time if any to continue preparations for Selihot and the High Holy Days as well as learn the world premiere I was to sing at the Harris Theater for the Fulcrum Point New Music 10th commemorative concert of 9/11.  Fortunate to have been invited to sing Three Yiddish Songs, composed by David Stock in a post-modern milieu with string ensemble, and to chant Kaddish at the end of the program, it was doubly wonderful to be with Stephen Burns (conductor and leader of Fulcrum Point) and to have been broadcast live on WFMT yesterday afternoon. 

Without hardly catching our breath, Debbie left early this morning to visit our daughter in Philadelphia and to attend a performance of Belina's first play with her new company, the Pig Iron Theater, while I am on a plane to Tel Aviv (with Howard Levy, Kalyan Pathak, Kiu Hagigi and other members of the Saffron Caravan ensemble) to play a ten day Peace Concert Tour for Genesis at the Crossroads in Beersheva, Jerusalem and Tel Aviv (as well as at the U.S. Ambassador's home). We will also be giving master classes in orchestral and vocal technique as well as donating musical instruments to children who otherwise could not afford them. The first of those will be Bedouin children near Beersheva.  I will try and write down my impressions of Israel in this tense and difficult time, while also reporting on how easy it is to create peace between conflicting cultures through the arts.

Musings from Poland #3

Finally, what made the entire experience even more special than it always is, is the Olive Tree. A restaurant opened by a Lubavitcher Hassid, just next door to the Isaac Synagogue, that cooks and runs like a 4 star restaurant. The room is gorgeous and I never had better food in a kosher restaurant. As I write this on United flight 907, I continue to smile from the little farewell for hosted for the staff of the Festival, my hotel (it actually belongs to my friend, Allen Haberberg) and a few friends. YItzchak, the proprietor, arranged a fabulous "milchik" menu ala Greece; an endless parade of bourekas, Greek salad, bourekas, hummus and tehinah, many other dips, onion pizza (fab), did I tell you about the bourekas?!, small dessert danish, and the centerpiece of the evening, flowing bottles of amazing Slivovitz and Vodka. By the way, he has two kitchens downstairs and his truly great food is the "fleischig!" Finally, I had three hours of sleep and Chicago, here I come.

Have a wonderful summer and think about coming with me next time I am invited to the Krakow Jewish Culture Festival!

Musings from Poland # 2

The opening evening (Sunday) concert, as always, is the hottest ticket in town. The Tempel is filled to the brim, the television cameras are rolling and we sing our hearts out. Raymond conducted the choir both in solos and in pieces accompanying the cantors. He also had a wonderful orchestral ensemble for which he had written arrangements of our cantorial numbers and accompanied us on the piano when the pieces were not orchestrally arranged.  In other words, he was one busy boy. We had rehearsed two days in a row for this and felt ready, and the program went flawlessly. Wish you could have been there. The following day, Monday, the three of us were atop the front balcony (actually the old women's entrance) of the Isaac Synagogue. 700-800 people lined the streets, sidewalks and the garden-like entrance of the synagogue to hear us sing a one hour Carlebach program. We made sure the crowd would be whipped into a frenzy and people were actually dancing in the streets long after the concert had ended.

I was sorry not to be able to participate in the final Saturday night outdoor concert that takes over the entire Jewishi quarter with twenty or so different acts (and Havdalah at the proper time) on a "big rock concert" stage playing for about 12,000 people dancing in the streets till the police ask them to shut it down!  But, home is where I want to be for shabbat.

Musings from Poland #1

The Krakow Jewish Culture Festival has been running annually for 21 years. Its history and that of its Founder and Director, Janusz Makuch, is well documented as the largest and most comprehensive festival of its kind in the world. It does not deal solely with music, although music is its most presented forum. This Festival which has grown over the years from a one day to a three day to a seven day, and now, to a 10 day festival of constant activity, learning and entertainment, is a place one can go to learn rudimentary Yiddish, Hebrew Dancing, go to Klezmer workshops (and many Klezmer concerts and LATE NIGHT Klezmer/Jewish Jazz club dates), and otherwise meet people from all over Europe, Israel, the U.S. and a smattering from Russia and other "exotic" places.

I have been invited as one of the "three cantors" (every year there are three cantors) perhaps 10 or more times since the second Festival took place. It is a very heady position to hold. A cantor cannot walk down the street without being recognized and asked for a picture and autograph. The truth is that we get as much out of the experience than does our audience. I was paired with one of my best friends, the
Bobover Hassidic chaz'n, Ben Zion Miller, from Boro Park, Brooklyn and Israel Rand of Ramat Gan, Israel, another old friend that I hadn't seen in quite some time. I was honored with "davening" Kabbalat Shabbat and Ma'ariv accompanied by a lovely men's choir from Jerusalem conducted by the well-known Israeli transplanted South African, Raymond Goldstein. What an experience to have a packed Tempel Synagoga with approximately 80% non-Jews who make up the bulk of our audience at each Festival. They are there (many of them young men and women -- services are run Orthodox and the ladies are up in the packed balcony, standing because they cannot see down into the sanctuary if they are seated) to witness a part of their history that had been lost for 50 or more years, since the Holocaust. We are there to revive a sense of Jewish culture and religion in a country that is, ostensibly, Judenrein (empty of Jews). After one has participated a couple of times (my first two - three times I felt uncomfortable as if the cobble stone streets of the Szyroka, the Jewish Quarter, were oozing the essence of that very vital and rich community, wiped away by a madman and his mad society) the tears dry up and feelings of pride and joy replace some of them. The level of musicianship, whether from the cantors or the klezmer groups, constistently is so high and the audiences so cultured and appreciative (as is the case still in most of Europe) that one feels a part of something truly grand.

Shabbat morning services were handled by the other two men, although we shared the putting of the Torah back in the ark with a resounding "Uvnucho Yomar." It has also become tradition that we hold a "melaveh malkah" (look it up) on Saturday night, immediately after Shabbat is over. I sang two Sephardic songs, and the other cantors did Yiddish and Hebrew songs. We then joined in numerous trios of table songs and the entire thing was televised live throughout Poland.  One might think this was the official start of the Festival. But, truth be known, all these previous events, added originally because the cantors came early and just had "to do" Shabbat, are NOW absolutely expected!